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The
department of Huehuetenango harbors some of Guatemala's most spectacular
scenery. The Cuchumatanes Mountains, part of the Sierra Madre mountain
range, soar to 3,600 m ASL and contain beautiful lakes, pine forests
and highlands pastures where sheep graze. From the low-lying town
of Huehuetenango, a road snakes up the rocky face of a mesa that marks
the entrance into the mountains. From a lookout point on top, there
are impressive views of Huehuetenango far below and of several of
Guatemala's tallest volcanoes. Eight different Maya languages are
spoken in this fascinating region of Guatemala, which shelters some
of the country's most remote communities.
Huehuetenango
The departmental capital, also called Huehuetenango (or simply Huehue),
has several fine hotels and is a convenient jumping off point for
tours into the Cuchumatanes Mountains. The town, located 260 km from
Guatemala City, is inhabited by about 15,000 people and has a warm,
comfortable climate. It hosts two annual fairs, one from July 12-18,
and another, to celebrate the Virgin of Conception, from December
5-8. On Sundays, marimba bands play in the central park, where there
is a relief map of the region. Most of the buildings in town date
from the 19th. century. The Selegua Valley, where Huehuetenango is
located, was once an important area for growing grapes in Guatemala.
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The
little town of Chiantla, just 6 km from Huehue, dates from the colonial
era. It is famed for its graceful town square, bronze and leather
crafts, and a religious image of the Virgin of the Candelaria, dressed
in a robe of silver filigree.
Another interesting place to visit nearby is Aguacatán, known
for fertile farmlands, where onions and garlic are grown. Two large
springs, which give birth to the San Juan and Blanco Rivers, are found
near Aguacatán. Both springs are great places for a swim, picnic
and bird watching.
Those with an interest in paleontology may wish to visit Chivacabé,
found about 10 km from Huehue. The fossil remains of two Pleistocene
giant armadillos, five mastodons and a giant sloth were found at Chivacabé.
Some of the fossils are on display in a rustic museum at the site. |
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Nearby
villages |
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Zaculeu
The Zaculeu archaeological
site, just a few minutes from Huehuetenango, was an important ceremonial
center for the Maya-Mam group for more than 800 years, and was still
active when conquistadors arrived in Guatemala. Zaculeu, which means
"white earth," may have referred to the city's white stucco
buildings. Forty-three structures, such as small pyramids and palaces,
are found at the site, as well as plazas and a ball court. The site
was built on a promontory of land between deep ravines, which gave
it an excellent defensive position. When Spaniards attacked the
city in 1525, they were repelled by Zaculeu's leader, Kaibil Balam,
and forced to lay siege. The city did not surrender until six weeks
later, when its inhabitants were on the verge of starvation. At
Zaculeu's small museum, ceramics, a burial urn and other items discovered
during excavation are on display.
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Magdalena
and Yolnajab Lakes
Although a little hard to get to, Lake Magdalena and Lake Yolnajab
are both outstanding ecotourism destinations in the Cuchumatanes.
The 5 km hike to Yolnajab begins in the isolated village of Yalambojoch,
down a steep trail that eventually arrives at lakeside. This enormous,
beautiful lake covers 3.8 square kilometers, has a shore of white
sand, and is surrounded by oak forest that is great for bird watching.
Lake Magdalena, found just 20 km from Huehuetenango, has its own
mystique. Located at a higher elevation, the lake is often covered
with mists. Water from the Magdalena River cascades into the turquoise-blue
lake at its upper end, and eventually flows out through a series
of waterfalls at the other end. In the dry season, a four-wheel
drive vehicle can reach the lake in about 3 hours. A great option
is to visit the lake on horseback. Horse tours to the lake and other
parts of the Cuchumatanes are provided by the Unicornio Azul tour
company in the town of Chancol.
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